Touching down in the City of Lights for the last weekend of the Olympic Games? Writer Rob LeDonne gives us the rundown of the coolest spots in the city for the Parisian halftime of your dreams.
There’s a palpable vibe in Paris, a unique feel of a place that’s squarely in the centre of the world. Much has been made of what the Olympics will do to the city, and global headlines have focused on details like the quality of the water at the Seine River and its subsequent, um, poop-demonstration. (One thing’s for sure: the French know how to protest). But beyond the salacious headlines, the sprawling metropolis was more than ready for this bow on the world stage. After all, the city has the games in its DNA, first hosting them as part of the World’s Fair in 1900. Similarly, I’m ready to take in the sights.
To the north of the city lies Fondation Louis Vuitton, a museum from the luxury brand located in the 16th arrondissement. Designed by Frank Gehry who was said to take inspiration from 19th-century glass and garden architecture, its location in the sprawling Bois de Boulogne park, which abounds with fresh flowers and lush grass, is as impressive as the building itself. Inside the towering glass structure is a minimalistic, stylish space.
Perhaps that’s why Prelude to the Olympics, a starry party hosted in part by the brand itself along with Vogue’s Anna Wintour, drew a disparate range of personalities to the location. It was here, on the eve of the games, that figures such as Mick Jagger, Rosalia, Jeremy Allen White, and Louis Vuitton Creative Director Pharrell Williams converged. The buzzy party was a far cry from the museums’ regular laid back Late Hours bash, which I attended a few Fridays before the games for cocktails, delicious Brazilian street food, and a DJ set. But there are nods to the games inside the museum itself, including a 1984 collaboration between Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol aptly dubbed Olympics, featuring both icon’s artistic signatures.
Elsewhere, the city’s many museums have become hotbeds for a bevy of notable tourists, as some of the capital’s iconic landmarks are also doubling up as Olympic venues this summer. The Louvre took centre stage during the Opening Ceremony, boasting iconic works of art ranging from the Mona Lisa to the Venus de Milo, and was Kendall Jenner’s spot of choice when perusing the City of Lights at midnight last month — though her pictures walking around the museum barefoot didn’t land well with the online crowd. Meanwhile, Zac Efron was spotted at the Musée de l’Orangerie during his visit to Paris for the games, posing with one of the space’s paintings by Vincent van Gogh.
When it comes to dining, culture and cuisine, head to Fouquet’s, a Paris icon as symbolic of the city as the Eiffel Tower itself. Open since 1899 (a year before the aforementioned 1900 games here), it has stood the test of time as one of the classiest and most well-known restaurants in a city full of them. How should one dress when dining there? That’s a question that rang through my mind as I was getting ready. Would anything less than a top hat and coattails be sufficient?
In reality, its 125 year-old history has made it a tourist hotspot. And if there’s one thing tourists don’t wear after a day sauntering up and down the Champs-Elysees that flanks it, it’s uncomfortable clothing. The menu here features a range of Parisian specialties, but it seems like the right occasion to indulge in some of the city’s greatest hits: Beef Tartare, Duck Foie Gras, and a heavenly plate of delectable cheese. Of course the people-watching here is delicious too. After having dinner inside, I shift to a table on the street, turning into just another audience member as a host of locals and wide-eyed tourists parade down the Champs, to and from the nearby Arc De Triomphe which stands mighty in the distance.
Trading a bustling tourist spot for speakeasy-style cocktails, the Experimental Cocktail Club in the Saint-Sauveur neighbourhood has been a boozy, trailblazing addition to the Paris scene since its 2007 opening, changing the tastes of a city formerly only known for its wine and liquor such as St Germain and Chartreuse. In its speak-easy style space, the cocktails here amount to wild inventions and, true to the space’s name, interesting experiments. Forget about ordering a martini, here the cocktails are as adventurous as the city itself.
What’s next? The curiously-named Dirty Dick, a beach tiki bar where the cocktails amount to a little more traditionally tropical touch. Think luscious rum-filled Painkillers and massive punch bowls, in a space offering cosy couches and beach decor. Meanwhile, for more a full-on experience, the popular club Silencio (designed by the filmmaker David Lynch) offers a sexy and stylish night out. Open since 2011, the tight-doored building grants a ticket to an audience ready to be surprised, featuring musical guests at the DJ booth like James Blake and The Black Keys, both of whom graced the hotspot in recent weeks.
And, of course, one eventually needs a place to hang their head. Enter: Hotel Lutetia. Taking its name from the original moniker for the City of Lights, the hotel was founded a mere ten years after those turn-of-the-century games. Since then, aside from a brief break when it took in displaced artists before getting occupied by Nazi forces during World War II (then reverting to its status as a safe haven after the American liberation), the property has since kept that artistic DNA, hosting the likes of Pablo Picasso. The legend is that James Joyce even wrote part of Ulysses here, though maybe a member of the staff should have told him to make it a wee bit shorter.
Inside the Lutetia, guests flock to gaze at its shiny marble lobby and dip in its glowing blue pool. In the rooms, found in sleek, low-lit hallways, pillows are custom-stitched with guests’ initials. Tubs and sinks made of pure marble adorn the bathrooms, equipped with cool-crowd favourite Diptyque products.
While the swank Lutetia may have been around for 90 years, the Hotel Le Grand Mazarin in the trendy Le Marais district has only been operating in its current form since last fall, and is another hotbed of activity during the Games. The neighbourhood it calls home is one of the city’s most desirable areas, rife with small shops, quaint cafes boasting global cuisine, and boulangeries on every corner.
A must-stay for design aficionados, the Mazarin invites you to an utterly aesthetic Bridgerton-meets-Wes Anderson journey, with its walls covered in maximalist patterns, interestingly shaped furniture, and pastel tones. The hotel’s signature amenity is located on the basement level: a tile-covered green pool and spa, surrounded by al fresco paintings of ribbons in baby blues, soft yellows, and lush greens. I enjoy a couple of hours here one afternoon as low-fi pop music plays, occasionally popping into the steam room and sauna next to the water. Nearby, a menu full of champagne and other libations calls my name. The perfect break during a games-packed weekend.
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